The last few weeks I crossed the centre of the United States and there is one word that describes my daily life best: “SUFFERING!”
But let me start with one of the greatest highlights of the whole tour so far. I stay in St. Louis for two days and the whole city is full of people wearing red or white shirts saying “Cardinals” on it. It’s the local base ball team and it’s supposed to be one of the best nation wide (sorry guys didn’t know that).
While making a loop through town on my bike I spontaneously buy two tickets, call mike an artist which I meet in the hostel if he wants to join and an hour later we are entering the stadium. The Cardinals stadium is huge and sold out, the atmosphere is fantastic and the few over to the gateway arch as well. I think I am the only one here not knowing the rules and not realizing that the game was over.
But back to real life …
I feel very bad cycling through the west of Ohio. I sweat heavily at night and have to change clothing a few times while resting. My sleeping bag gets so wet that it doesn’t isolate against the cold anymore. One night I have to wear my raingear to be at least a little bit protected. It can be an infection of the kidneys I think, so I need to see a doctor. Luckily not, was the result after being checked in the hospital. I got a cold or a dislocated vertebra in my backbone. So I am forced to rest for a few days, looking out of a hotel window and all I can see are perfect cycling conditions. Being more or less fit again, the wind decides to change direction. I am fighting against the wind through Illinois and Indiana. After recovering from the push to St. Louis the weather forecast for the Ozarks and whole Missouri was rain, cold and thunderstorms for the next two weeks. I have to go on and California still soooo far away!
I have to do two important things: First being disciplined; stand up early and don’t stop cycling. Second; spend more money for hotels to sleep in a warm bad. After a while I feel better and all of a sudden and completely unexpected the sun shines for me again!
How to react on dog attacks?
Usually the bears scare people but I lost that fear after two summers up in Alaska. Dogs are a different thing. Some dog owners told me they don’t like bicycles. Most of the time they just say hello, but two times in the Ozarks (Missouri) they spot me from far and are after me. I have to flee, the first time in my life I have to really run away from something. The most important thing is to keep the direction, to not run into some passing cars. But what to do if you have to climb, or if they are in big numbers? So I decide to arm myself with dog and pepper spray. The dog spray does not harm them, so first I didn’t want to buy it. But after relaxing about the whole thing I test it once so far and it seems to work just leaving the dog behind reacting somehow stupid.
Something bad brought something good …
Getting money with my ATM card works nowhere in Oklahoma. After another disappointing try at a bank a gentleman named David talked to me and offered me help. I still had enough money for a while, but he offers me to contact him once in trouble and after a good Italian lunch I felt better.
The next thing: While riding through 45km of intense city traffic in Oklahoma City I have a flat tire in the front and the rear, which I couldn’t get fixed. I think: OK that’s it! I will drown my bike with all its luggage in the next city pond, take a taxi to the airport and book a ticket to somewhere. Alright behave Peter, be nice, that’s still nothing. The really hard countries still lay ahead, I know it from tour guiding. Thanks to the wonders of internet I locate the next cycling shop and be there after 2km cycling and pumping air in the tires. At “Al’s Bicycles” they fix my bike and thanks to Henry donated repair and parts to my trip. Thank you!
The last days on the middle stage …
I always divided the crossing of the US in three major stages: the east, the middle and the west. I am close to Amarillo Texas which is the end of the middle stage for me. I leave Oklahoma and the last days of sun warm me up again. Taking cabins on campsites is also a good idea to enjoy the overnight stay and save time for packing. I feel good again. But that’s life, after the sun comes the rain! I have lunch in Elk City and although spotting the thick clouds, I know it’s better to cycle on. I keep on pedalling and completely wet and freezing I reach the oil booming town of Sayre Oklahoma. Sissy and Ken are running a RV park there, but have no cabins or empty caravans to sleep in for me. Due to the oil boom, hotels got more expensive. After a little chat they offer me to sleep in their barn and invite me for dinner. In the morning Sissy looks at pictures from Innsbruck and a usually unknown feeling comes up called “homesickness”.
Two days to Amarillo and I decide to empty the batteries. Days are short and the only thing I take my time for is eating (bad tongues say my ingestion works via phagocytosis). Then yesterday at 9pm I arrive. There are tons of hotels out on the interstate but for taking a rest for two days I want to stay downtown. I ask for a “cheap hillbilly 40 bucks hotel…” everyone seems to understand what I am searching for, which I find right in the centre. What does a man need, a bad without insects, internet and a warm shower. Just don’t try to impress a girl with it …
Like coming into Amarillo, I don’t plane much. But one thing is for sure, I will leave Route 66. Main reason is Interstate 40. The traffic is very noisy day and night and Route 66 is mostly paralleling I 40. I might go a little further south taking mostly HWY 60.
The last 2000km and the pacific is waiting…
Total distance travelled on the bike: 5934km (3709M)
Days travelled: 96